modular track idea

Questions and Ideas to track building, how are you doing it? need help? new features? share your ideas.
BriG
Posts: 37
Joined: Wed 10. Aug 2016 00:44
Location: Bethlehem, Connecticut USA

Re: modular track idea

Post by BriG »

Finally have some pictures to post, I can't figure out how to post them. I'm not very computer savvy.

Please help!
kiklo
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Re: modular track idea

Post by kiklo »

Hi. for howto videos http://www.magracingforum.com/viewtopic ... &t=40#p123

For pic just use the upload section at the bottom of a post.

Just mind the max size ca 640 by 320 and only 2 or 3 pr. post.
Racing Regards

Kim K.
BriG
Posts: 37
Joined: Wed 10. Aug 2016 00:44
Location: Bethlehem, Connecticut USA

Re: modular track idea

Post by BriG »

Okay, I'm trying pictures again.

This is my layout on 5 sheets of 4' x 8' 1/4" MDF, all five being cut in half so there is a total of 10 4' square sections.
For my first attempt I used the two far left and the two lower right sections joined together as you'll see. The other 6 sections will be added at a later date. I roughly drew in the racing line on the track. The track is 12" wide with three lanes.
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I will be using the table top connectors shown in 3/4" pine that I will sandwich between the MDF and 1/4" plywood underlayment using 3/4 styrofoam between them in the open areas where track runs to keep the MDF from sagging and to keep the sections rigid.
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Here are sections of the track. I have three lanes all the way around, one default racing line, and a couple other racing line options going through the corners. It does get busy in the turns, so drivers need to know the track and pay attention. I may try to simplify things a little, I'll see how it goes.

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That's it for now.

Thanks Ned for your help with the pictures

Brian
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Re: modular track idea

Post by MagRacer »

Nice layout, looking forward to see more :-)
Ned
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Joined: Sun 13. Apr 2014 01:02
Location: Sedona, AZ USA

Re: modular track idea

Post by Ned »

A few questions Brian:
1. How did you cut the slot in the MDF to embed the wire?
2. What wire diameter did you use?
3. What is the radius of your tightest corner?
BriG
Posts: 37
Joined: Wed 10. Aug 2016 00:44
Location: Bethlehem, Connecticut USA

Re: modular track idea

Post by BriG »

Hi Ned,

I used the Keld method with the Dremel saw attachment. I had clamped the sections all together and made sure to make my cuts across the joints without stopping because it was difficult to stay right on my drawn lines (learned that the hard way on some of my early cuts).

I used .029 for just about everything, there is some .031 in a couple places. I still want to put in a pit lane on the outside of the long straight and also wire on the over run areas off the turns if a car should stray, I'll probably use the .031 there. As you might see some of the lane changes are just the gap type, but I will be changing them to plates, even though they all worked. I left 12mm spacing between the wires except where they cross over in the turns. The tightest inside radius is probably 10 inches, maybe a little more.

Thanks again for helping with the pictures. I only posted these, thinking I may overdue it, but I have more.

Brian
BriG
Posts: 37
Joined: Wed 10. Aug 2016 00:44
Location: Bethlehem, Connecticut USA

Re: modular track idea

Post by BriG »

A few more pictures

These are some of the gap lane changes. The spacing of the wires is 12mm and the gaps are somewhere around 50mm. As I said they all work, except if you turn in the wrong direction than what you intend, you will crash.

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This lane change is for left or right, but again if the car is going slow, it will miss the wires when turning. Now it may just be my cars, I'm not sure, but I will be putting in plates in all the lane changes to prevent any wandering. The glue I used worked alright in holding the wires in, in most cases the fit was tight enough in the MDF where glue was probably not necessary. The glue also allowed me to pull out wire if needed without messing up the MDF, but what I didn't like about it was that it did not dry really hard, so sanding is going to be an issue. I am going to try something else when I add more wire.

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BriG
Posts: 37
Joined: Wed 10. Aug 2016 00:44
Location: Bethlehem, Connecticut USA

Re: modular track idea

Post by BriG »

This is the first section with the outside 1x2 and 1x3 frames attached to the bottom plywood. You will notice the connectors in place along the left edge, I pinched a piece of sheet metal between the adjoining frames so that when I lay the MDF on top it will have an edge to fit up against so the edges will be flush together when assembled.

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The next step, I installed foam sheet between the frames so the MDF will have a flat surface to attach to.

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Closeup of one of the connectors. I fit a couple of pieces of foam board in the gaps around the pin side of the connector so it stays in place in the hole once I cover it with the MDF. The piece of wood with the writing on it is the frame for the next section to be built. I have the adjoining frames aligned with 1/4" oak dowels glued in one side going into holes in the other. The connectors themselves will not align the joined sections.

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Ned
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Re: modular track idea

Post by Ned »

BriG wrote: I have the adjoining frames aligned with 1/4" oak dowels glued in one side going into holes in the other. The connectors themselves will not align the joined sections.

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I am not a woodworker and have no special woodworking tools. How did you drill holes in the edge of the frame, for the oak dowel pins, so that the holes are aligned perefectly and they are perpendicular to the edge of the frame and parallel with the face of the frame? Did you make the holes in the other side slightly bigger to receive easily the dowel pins which are glued into one side?
Ned
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Joined: Sun 13. Apr 2014 01:02
Location: Sedona, AZ USA

Re: modular track idea

Post by Ned »

Another baseboard material to consider for a modular portable track is Owens Corning FOAMULAR extruded polystyrene pink insulation board. 1" thick, 4' X 8' sheets come in at least 2 versions. One is labled FOAMULAR 150, another FOAMULAR 250. FOAMULAR® 250 has a compressive strength of 25 psi maximum while FOAMULAR 150 has a compressive strength of 15 psi maximum.
Based on that information, I would recommend 250. It should be more resistant to denting and it probalby would withstand someone carefully walking on a magracing track on the grouind made of it. It should be an excellent material for making a poratble track.
A 1" x 4' x 8' sheet of Square Edged FOAMULAR® 250 cost about $20. FOAMULAR 250 1 in. x 2 ft. x 8 ft. Tongue and Groove Insulation Sheathing cost about $10.50. The tongue and groove sheathing might be better yet for a portbable track. FOAMULAR® 250 is also available 2" thick, about $40 for a 4' x 8' sheet. Perhaps that would be rigid and strong enough to use the type of connectors discussed earlier in this topic.
Other companies make this type of insulation board. It is known as XPS insulation board.
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