Instructions for Chassis Kit CK3

Ned's instructions for building a chassis and attaching a body to it.

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Ned
Posts: 368
Joined: Sun 13. Apr 2014 01:02
Location: Sedona, AZ USA

Instructions for Chassis Kit CK3

Post by Ned »

Following are detailed instructions for building a 1:32 scale magracing chassis, using Chassis Kit CK3, which can be purchased at
https://www.shapeways.com/product/FTUYF ... d=60767251

The kit is available in white or black. It is designed to fit most race car bodies with the motor mounted so that the shaft of the motor is perpendicular to the rear axle, NOT parallel to the rear axle. This requires a crown gear on the axle to mesh with the pinion gear on the motor.

Inspect the product when you receive it. Make sure that the pins/posts at each end of the tie rod and and at the end of the guide arm are not missing. If the product is twisted or warped when you receive it, lay it on a flat smooth surface for 12 hours. If the printing is still not flat, place a light weight book on it for another 12 hours. If the printing is deffective, contact Shapeways at https://www.shapeways.com/contact/conta ... peways.com

Please conatct me via PM with any questions or problems concerning assembly or operation of your chassis. Also, let me know about any suggestions you have for improving the instructions or the chassis kit.

Assembling the chassis and mounting it to a body, are covered in these instructions.
Ned
Posts: 368
Joined: Sun 13. Apr 2014 01:02
Location: Sedona, AZ USA

Part 1: Introduction

Post by Ned »

Part 1: Introduction

This kit is comprised of a Base Frame, Frontend Kit, and Motor Pod. The wheelbase of CK3 is adjustable from 3.25” to 3.55”. The frame is 2.03” wide. The frontend has 1 degree of positive toe and 2 degrees of negative camber. This eliminates frontend shimmy at high speeds. The lack of shimmy improves handling and lane change reliability.

CK3 is intended to be used with 3/32” (2.38mm) diameter front and rear axles, along with wheels and tires typically found on 1/32 slot cars. Before beginning to assemble the kit, it is important that you obtain the wheels you will use in front and the wheels you will use in back. Also procure the axle that is appropriate for the rear wheels you have chosen, paying attention to how the wheels will be attached to the axle. Some wheels are simply pressed onto the axle, while others are attached with a set screw, through a protruding wheel hub.

It is especially important to obtain the best fitting front stub axles for your chosen wheels. The front wheels of most slot cars are fixed to the front axle and do not spin on the axle. Instead the axle spins in some kind of bearing, and the axle and wheel spin together. In the case of the original stock magracing chassis, the frontend is designed for the front wheels to spin on the front stub axles, which are fixed and do not spin in the stub axle carriers (steering knuckles).

In the case of my chassis you can set it up either way. If you have front wheels and stub axles produced by Fly or Scalextric (and many other brands I suspect), you can enlarge the bore in the steering knuckles so that the stub axles spin freely in those holes. In that case, plan to connect the front wheels, stub axles, and steering knuckles the same as Fly or Scalextric. This looks better since you won't have the head of a rivet or screw showing on the outside of the wheel. The plastic stub axles common to Fly slot cars work well after the heads are reduced easily by sanding..

If you don't have any stub axles from a slot car, in most cases, 3/32” diameter Stainless Steel Flat Head Solid Rivets 1/2" long should work very well as stub axles, once the length and head are modified. The exact length (under the head) should be about .21" longer than the length of hole in the hub of the wheel plus the thickness of any spacers you may use to obtain the desired front track. If the wheel is made out of plastic, and the hub is too long, you can easily reduce the length of the hub by sanding off some of the hub protruding beyond the inside edge of the wheel. The 3/32" diameter rivets I purchased from McMaster-Carr measure .095", a little over 3/32".

An alternative stub axle is a 2.5mm diameter Stainless Steel Metric Pan Head Phillips Machine Screws with fine thread. The 2.5mm Machine Screws I bought measure .096", slightly under 2.5mm. The machine screws work well if your front wheels have holes going all of the way through the hub and you attach the wheels to the steering knuckles so that the wheels spin on the axles. In this case, one advantage of the machine screw is that it is easy to adjust the gap between the hub of the wheel and the side of the steering knuckle. It is also easy to remove the screw and thus the wheel. It also eliminates the need to modify the head, but the head shows.  

If you want to use stock magracer axles and wheels contact me by PM. Stock front axles have a diameter of 1/16” (.0625”) and rear axles have a diameter of 2mm (.079”). You should be aware of the fact that the stock front plastic wheels have tapered bores. They measure .0635” on the inside of the hub which is very good for the .0625” diameter axle. But the bore diameter is at least .008” larger on the outside. Consequently the front wheels wobble on the stub axles even when brand new.

It is assumed that you have 3 critical stock components, a motor with pinion gear, a steering coil, and a printed circuit board (PCB) for the chassis. These components are not available separately new off the shelf. As of December 2016 I can’t find them anywhere. Used stock magracer chassis are available which can be cannibalized.

I do not recommend trying to reduce the diameter of the bore in a wheel hub unless you have a lot of experience at this. Most of my attempts have failed. If you choose to attach the stub axles to the knuckles, so the axles don't spin, you may have to enlarge the bore in the front wheels from a slot car by 2 to 3 thousandths of an inch, so they will spin freely on the front stub axles, That should not be a problem with the right drill bit.

My experience suggests that which body is mounted on the chassis has little effect on top speed. However, the body has a very large effect on the overall performance of cars running on my track. My track has several banked corners, bumps, and an S curve where the bank changes from right to left. The body greatly affects handling and cornering. Changing the body will almost always affect best lap times because the body affects handling, cornering, and acceleration slightly. The body may not make as much difference if your track is smooth and flat with no banks or twists in the roadway. Heavier bodies reduce run time on a fully charged battery. Heavier bodies may also cause a motor to overheat sooner. If you run your chassis without a body and then with a body, you'll see a difference in performance.

If you are converting a slot car to a magnetically guided car, before disassembling the slot car note how the wheels are located relative to the wheel wells of the body. Pay close attention to the frontend. If you build your magracer with the same front track (measured outside to outside) will the tires clear the wheel wells when turning? Probably not. Will they clear the head lights? Determine and write down the wheelbase and front track, (measured outside to outside), that you think will work best. In most cases you will want a front track that is shorter (narrower) than the one of your slot car.

Contact me by PM if you are interested in buying a small packet of screws, nuts, magnets, and washer/spacers. Some of those which are needed in this custom chassis are not used in a standard chassis. Also please contact me with any questions or problems concerning assembly.
Ned
Posts: 368
Joined: Sun 13. Apr 2014 01:02
Location: Sedona, AZ USA

Part 2: Tools Required to Complete a Car

Post by Ned »

Part 2: Tools Required to Complete a Car

In addition to soldering gear and several drill bits, most of the tools and materials shown in the photo below, are needed to build the chassis. A small electric rotary tool like a Dremel with a router bit is handy for removing obstructions inside a body and disassembling the interior of a body. A digital caliper is very useful building the chassis and mounting the body. It is required for very accurate work and is highly recommended.

Image

The sandpaper is #220 & #600 grit. The hex socket is 4mm. The diameter of the fishtail router bit with yellow/green collar is about .09". It is very useful in a Dremel tool for removing material
on the inside of a plastic body. The block of wood measures 3/4" x 1 1/2" x 3".

The drill bits required are as follows:
.0670" (1.70mm) #51
.0700" (1.78mm) #50
.0730" (1.85mm) #49
.0750" (1.90mm)
.0760" (1.93mm) #48
.0781" (1.98mm) 5/64"
.0935" (2.37mm) #42
.0938" (2.38mm) 3/32"
.0960" (2.44mm) #41
.0980" (2.50mm) #40
.0995" (2.53mm) #39 Needed only for 2.50mm stub axles.
.1015" (2.58mm) #38 May be needed for 2.50mm stub axles.

These can be purchased new or used from DrillBitsUnlimted.com . They sell sets and individual drill bits and router bits. I have found their used carbide drill bits to work well. I paid $0.83 each. You can buy 10 bits for less than $10.00 plus shipping. Here are the URLs:
http://drillbitsunlimited.com/Drill-Siz ... 32971.aspx for .0380” to .0787”
http://drillbitsunlimited.com/Drill-Siz ... 32972.aspx for .0810” to .1180”

Please contact me by PM, if you find a mistake in the instructions or have a suggestion for improving them.
Ned
Posts: 368
Joined: Sun 13. Apr 2014 01:02
Location: Sedona, AZ USA

Part 3: Other Components and Parts Required

Post by Ned »

Part 3: Other Components and Parts Required

Click on the attached pdf file to view a table of additional hardware and components needed to complete a car using Chassis Kit CK3.
Ned
Posts: 368
Joined: Sun 13. Apr 2014 01:02
Location: Sedona, AZ USA

Part 4: Separating Plastic Parts

Post by Ned »

Part 4: Separating Plastic Parts

Below is a photo of an earlier version of CK3.

Image

For tips on separating the parts, see Part 4 of the instructions for CK1 and CK4 at

http://magracingforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=614
and
http://magracingforum.com/viewtopic.php ... 3875#p3875
Ned
Posts: 368
Joined: Sun 13. Apr 2014 01:02
Location: Sedona, AZ USA

Part 5: Attaching Components to Frame

Post by Ned »

Part 5: Attaching Components to Frame

Here is a photo of an earlier version of CK3 partially assembled.

Image

See Part 5 of instructions for CK1 at
http://magracingforum.com/viewtopic.php ... 3707#p3707
Ned
Posts: 368
Joined: Sun 13. Apr 2014 01:02
Location: Sedona, AZ USA

Part 6: Assembling Frontend Kit

Post by Ned »

Part 6: Assembling Frontend Kit

The first 8 steps listed below are the same as those for CK1 despite the fact that CK1 uses different sized axles compared to CK3.

1. Determine the correct orientation of the polarity of the two neodymium 5mm dia x 3mm thick magnets to be glued into the box on the tie rod. It is important that the polarity of both magnets is oriented correctly, when glued into the box.
  • A. If you have an operational stock magracer:
    • 1. Place 2 magnets side by side on the blade of a screwdriver as depicted in the photo below.
Image
    • 2. Now with your thumb and index finger, take a hold of the magnet box on your stock magracer, and place the magnets stuck to the screwdriver against the back of the magnet box. If the magnets are oriented properly on the screwdriver, they will quickly snap toward the magnets in the stock magracer and easily line up as shown in the photo below.
Image
    • 3. If they don’t want to line up easily, the magnets on the screwdriver are not oriented properly. Change the orientation and try again.

      4. Once they are oriented properly, mark the exposed faces of the 2 magnets on the screwdriver with a black permanent felt tip pen. Also mark the top edge of one of the magnets to distinguish between left and right as shown in the photo below.
Image
    • 5. Now that you have determined the correct orientation for the magnets, simultaneously glue them into the box on the tie rod. Make certain that they are both oriented the same way in the box as in the stock magracer, with the black faces facing as depicted in the photo below. Be careful not to switch the left and right magnets. When gluing the magnets in place, make sure that they are firmly pressed to the bottom and back of the box. CA glue such as Krazy Glue or Supper Glue works well for this. Two part epoxy adhesive also works.

Image
  • B. If you do not have an operational magracer:
    • 1. You're in trouble :lol:
    • 2. Not really! If you have a stock tie rod with magnets installed, use that as your model for comparison, and follow the instructions above.
    • 3. If you don't have anything with which to compare, you have a 50% of getting it right! Just glue 2 magnets in the box. Make sure that they are firmly pressed to the bottom and back of the box. CA glue such as Krazy Glue or Supper Glue works well for this. If they are oriented the wrong way, the car will steer the wrong way. In that case just swap the coil wiring on the PCB and you're good to go. :)
2. Ream out the hole farthest from the kingpins, in each of the stub axle carriers (steering knuckles) using a #50 (.070”) (1.78mm) drill bit held in a pin vice (small handheld manual drill). (The steering knuckles are symmetrical and the 3D model for the left one is identical to the right one.) Now check to see if the pins at each end of the steering plate (tie rod) will fit into the holes that you just enlarged in the steering knuckles. An easy and safe way to do this is to first place the tie rod on a smooth flat surface, with the pins facing up. Then with the finger of one hand, hold down the tie rod. Now with the thumb and index finger of the other hand, (or a pair of tweezers) grasp a knuckle near the hole you enlarged. Slip the hole in the knuckle over the pin on the tie rod. Be very careful doing this so as to not break the pin off of the tie rod. A pair of tweezers comes in handy for this. Do NOT try to force the pin into the hole. Do the same with the other knuckle and pin.

Image

3. The knuckles should rotate freely on the pins of the tie rod but without any play (without any slop). If they don’t rotate freely, ream out the hole a little more with the same bit. Do not use a bit larger than #50. Just run a #50 bit back and forth through the hole from both sides. Continue reaming out the hole from both the top and bottom until it is just the right size. The best hole diameter is usually about .003” larger than the pin diameter. When the knuckle is held as shown, the tie rod should should swing freely and come to rest as depicted in the photos below.

Image

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4. Now put the upper and lower suspension beams together. Simultaneously ream out the holes at the end of the beams with a 1.90mm (.0748”) bit. See photo below.

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5. After that, with the upper and lower beams still held together, ream out the hole in the lower beam that is used to attach the guide arm to the beams. Use a 5/64” diameter drill bit held in a pin vice to do this. See photo below.

Image

6. Now separate the upper and lower suspension plates (beams) and check to see if the king pins of the steering knuckles fit into the corresponding holes at the end of the lower suspension beam. An easy way to do this is to first place the lower beam on a smooth flat surface. With the steering knuckles attached to the tie rod, place the pin of one of the knuckles, into one of the holes at the end of the lower beam. Do the same with the other knuckle. Label the knuckles Left and Right so you can put them back together the same way.

Image

7. Now place the upper beam over the lower beam and knuckles, being careful to align the pins of the knuckles with the holes in the upper beam. Press the lower and upper beams together. The knuckles, with the tie rod attached, should rotate freely between the beams when the beams are squeezed together in the middle. If they don’t, remove the knuckles, put the upper and lower beams back together again, and ream out the holes again at both ends simultaneously with a #48 (.760”) bit. When reaming out the holes at the ends of the beams, only do so when both beams are held together so that the holes in the upper and lower beams can be reamed out simultaneously to maintain the proper alignment.

The following steps are taken from the intructions for CK2 since they are analogous.

8. Now disassemble the beams, knuckles, and tie rod, being careful not to bend or break any pins.

9. At this point the appropriate instructions depend upon whether you intend to have your front wheels a) spin on fixed stub axles, like a stock magracer or b) not spin on stub axles which themselves spin in the steering knuckles, as is common for some 1/32 slot cars. Avoid pinching the king pins on the steering knuckles, so that you do not bend or break one. A pair of tweezers comes in handy here.
  • a) If you intend to have your front wheels spin on fixed stub axles, like a stock magracer
    • 1. Make sure that your stub axles are the appropriate length. The distance between the front wheels can be reduced by shortening the wheel hub that protrudes beyond the inside edge of the wheel. Usually all of the protruding hub has to be removed. The distance between the front wheels can be increased slightly by putting a spacer on the stub axle between the wheel hub and the steering knuckle.
    • 2. Verify that your wheels spin freely, without wobble on your stub axles. If not, correct before proceeding. I recommend that you glue your tires onto your wheels and then sand as needed to make them perfectly round. The diameter of the hole in the wheel should be about .003” larger than the diameter of the stub axle.
    • 3. Locate the hole for the stub axle in each steering knuckle. Ream out those holes so that they are about .001” smaller in diameter than the stub axles. If you are using 3/32 stainless steel rivets for stub axles (which measure .095”) , a 3/32” (2.38mm) drill bit should work fine. If you are using 2.50mm machine screws for stub axles , (which measure .096”) a #41 (.0960”) (2.44mm) drill bit will probably be okay.
    • 4. From the outside of the wheel, slide a 3/32” or 2.5 mm stub axle through the bore of a front wheel. Now place a washer/spacer on the protruding axle, if needed to increase the distance between the front wheels. Then, if a rivet, press the end of the stub axle into the hole in the Left or Right steering knuckle, as appropriate. If a machine screw, screw it into the appropriate knuckle. Leave about .005” of side play so that the wheels will spin freely on the stub axles.
  • b) If you intend to have your front wheels NOT spin on stub axles
    • 1. Locate the hole for the stub axle in each steering knuckle. Ream out those holes so that they are about .002” larger in diameter than the stub axles. If you are using 3/32 stainless steel rivets for stub axles (which measure .095”) , a #40 (.0980”) (2.50mm) drill bit should work well. For 2.50mm machine screws, try a #39 (.0995") (2.53mm) drill bit, then #38 if needed.
    • 2. Reduce the diameter of the head of your stub axles to less than .135” (3.43mm) and the thickness to less than .035" (.89mm). If made of steel, grinding it down is pretty easy. If made of plastic, sanding is even easier.
Image
Stainless steel rivets like the one on the left were used to make the stub axles. Original and final dimensions were:
Shaft diameter - 3/32", 3/32"
Shaft Length - 1/2", .335"
Head Diameter - .20", .133"
Head Height - .038", .038"
    • 3. Make sure that your stub axles are the appropriate length. The distance between the front wheels can be reduced by shortening the wheel hub. The distance can be increased slightly by putting a spacer on the stub axle between the wheel hub and the steering knuckle. Assuming you are not using any spacers to increase the front track, the length of the stub axles under the head should be equal to the length of the hole in the steering knuckle + the depth of the hole in the wheel hub + .005" for a little side play.
    • 4. Verify that the stub axles spin freely in the steering knuckles, with the wheels attached. Also verify that the wheels do not wobble when spinning. Correct any problems before proceeding. I recommend that you glue your tires onto your wheels and then sand as needed to make them perfectly round.
    • 5. Slide a 3/32” or 2.5 mm stub axle through the hole in the Left or Right steering knuckle, as appropriate. Now place a washer/spacer on the axle, if needed to increase the distance between the front wheels. If a rivet, press the end of the axle into the hub of a wheel. You may eventually have to glue the wheel to the end of the stub axle. If using a machine screw, screw it into the hub. Leave about .005” (.127mm) of side play so that the wheels will spin freely.
10. Attach the knuckles, with the front axles and wheels, to the upper and lower suspension beams. An easy way to do this is to place the lower beam across a block of wood 1.50” - 1.60” wide and about ½” thick and 3” long. Place the bottom pin of each knuckle in a hole at the end of the beam. Then place the upper beam on top making sure to line up the pins of the knuckles with the holes in the beam. Press the upper and lower beams together with the steering knuckles and wheels attached and set this aside.

Image
The photo above is one of a frontend assembly using front wheels from a SCX slot car and method b, with spinning stub axles.

Image
The photo above is one of a frontend assembly using stock front magracer wheels and method a, with fixed stub axles.

Image
The photo above is one of a frontend assembly using front slot car wheels and method b, with spinning stub axles.

Be careful handling the guide arm so as not to break or bend the pin.

11. Now press a neodymium 4mm dia x 3mm thick magnet into the guide arm. Make sure that the magnet is oriented so that the polarity is the same as that of the two 3mm dia x 2mm magnets pressed into the frame earlier. All 3 magnets must be orientated the same way, either all with the positive (+) pole facing up, or all with the negative (-) pole facing up. If oriented correctly, the magnet in the guide arm will be repelled by the magnets in the frame, so as to naturally center the magnet in the guide arm in the large hole in the frame, as depicted in the photo below. The bottom of the magnet should protrude about .010” - .015” below the bottom of the guide arm. A 4mm x 3.25mm magnet should also work. (Note that the photo below is of CK2.)

Image

12. Now thread a stainless steel pan head machine screw, 2mm dia x 14mm long, through the other hole in the guide arm. Just before snugging the head down on the guide arm, apply a drop of CA glue under the head. Now tighten until snug. The head of the screw should be flush with or recessed below the bottom edge of the guide arm. See photo below.

Image

13. Now pick up the upper and lower beams with the attached wheels and carefully insert the pins of the tie rod into the holes in the knuckles. Do not attach the guide arm at this time.

Please contact me by PM, if you find a mistake in the instructions or have a suggestion for improving them.
Ned
Posts: 368
Joined: Sun 13. Apr 2014 01:02
Location: Sedona, AZ USA

Part 7: Completing Front of Chassis

Post by Ned »

Part 7: Completing Front of Chassis

1. Attach the frontend assembly (with wheels and tie rod) to the base frame using 2 screws, by inserting the screws through the holes from the bottom of the frame. These screws do not need to be long enough to protrude completely through the upper suspension beam. Stainless steel screws work best but regular steel will also work. While attaching the frontend assembly to the base frame, hold the frame and suspension beams together, so that the lower beam is tight against the spacer molded into the base frame. Stainless steel pan head machine screws 2mm x 10mm long work fine without using nuts. No. 2 pan head screws ⅜” long also work, but you may have to enlarge the holes in the base frame and lower beam (not the upper beam) to handle the bigger diameter screws. A #45 (.0820") (2.08mm) drill bit should work fine for enlarging the holes for No. 2 screws.

2. If need be, adjust the gap between the front of the coil and the 2 magnets glued to the tie rod. This gap should be .005" - .0015". The typical business card is about .013” thick, so it works well as a feeler gauge. If the gap is too large, loosen the screw holding the coil to the frame, slide the coil forward, insert the appropriately sized shim, and re-tighten the screw. If the gap is too small, you can remove the paper on the end of the coil to provide clearance between the coil and the magnets. You could also reduce the thickness of the rear face of the coil bobbin by sanding. This coil must be adjusted and mounted securely in the frame before the motor is glued to the frame.

3. Turn the chassis upside down and carefully insert the plastic pin on the guide arm into the slot in the tie rod, while inserting the machine screw through the hole in the bottom suspension beam.

4. While holding the guide arm in place, turn the chassis over and secure the guide arm to the suspension beams with a Nylon-Insert Locknut, which fits the machine screw that is attached to the guide arm.

Please contact me by PM, if you find a mistake in the instructions or have a suggestion for improving them.
Ned
Posts: 368
Joined: Sun 13. Apr 2014 01:02
Location: Sedona, AZ USA

Part 8: Assembling Rear End

Post by Ned »

Part 8: Assembling Rear End

The rear end of CK3 is very similar to CK4. The pictures that follow are of CK4.

1. First enlarge the bores in the motor pod to fit your axle precisely. Make the diameter of the holes in the axle supports .004” -.006” larger than the diameter of the rear axle. A #40 (.098’) (2.50mm) bit should work fine for a 3/32" axle. If you have a long 3/32" bit, ream out holes in both axle supports simultaneously to minimize any misalignment of the holes. Then follow with a short #40 bit. To check for the correct clearance, slide an axle through the axle supports. Hold one end of the axle and swing the pod hanging from the axle. It should swing back and forth freely without any slop/play.

2. Now determine the appropriate length for your 3/32" rear axle and cut it shorter if needed. The length will probably be dependent upon the width of the body at the rear wheel wells and the width and style of the wheels.

3. If you haven't yet done so, carefully slide the motor pod on to the tail of the frame. The motor pod should slide easily onto the frame. Do not try to force it on. If it does not slide easily, smooth the bottom of the pod, by sliding it across a piece of super fine sandpaper (#600 grit) placed on a smooth flat surface. Also, sand lightly the top edge of the tail of the frame where the motor pod slides onto the frame.

4. Now slide your 3/32" rear axle through the right hand axle support post on the motor pod, then through the crown gear and then through the left hand axle support post.

5. Slide spacers on both ends of the axle to create the desired rear track. The amount of axle exposed at both ends should be the same. See photo below.

Image

6. Now attach both wheels to the axle, leaving about .003” of side-to-side play/slop. The axle with wheels should spin freely. See photo below.

Image

7. Slide the motor pod with wheels and axle to establish your desired wheelbase. Lock this wheelbase in place using a small screw and nut as shown in the photo below.

Image

8. Verify that the weelbase fits the wheelwells of your body. Also verify that there is room for the crown gear. You may have to remove some of the ducting on an LMP blody and also some of the interior. Before removing any mounting post molded into the body, consider whether it may be useful to you in mounting the body to your new chassis. Once the motor is glued to the frame you won't be able to adjust the wheelbase.

Image


9. If need be, attach an 8 tooth pinion gear to the motor shaft. To do this, press the gear part way onto the shaft. Then cut a jig from a piece of card about .010" thick and slip it around the shaft as depicted in the following photo. Now with the gear on a smooth flat surface press the motor down until it’s tight against the card jig. Remove the jig and you now have a perfect gap between the motor housing and the gear.

Image

10. Solder 2 thin, and very fexible wires about 1.5" - 2.0" long to the terminals on the motor. Multistrand copper is best because it is very flexible.

11. Determine where the motor must be located so that the crown gear does not interfere with the body. Now glue the face of the motor, without the identifying numbers, onto the frame. Before doing so, scratch up that face of the motor with sandpaper to improve adhesion. The black end of the motor should be snugged up against the rib on front edge of the motor pod. This helps to maintain proper alignment of the motor shaft and the axle. Five-minute two part epoxy glue works well to glue the motor onto the frame. It is slow to cure, compared to CA glue. This allows plenty of time to precisely locate the motor. CA glue, such as Krazy Glue, also works, but permits about 2 seconds for adjustment.

12. When the glue is cured, fasten the crown gear to the axle so that it meshes properly with the pinon gear on the motor.

Please contact me by PM, if you find a mistake in the instructions or have a suggestion for improving them.
Ned
Posts: 368
Joined: Sun 13. Apr 2014 01:02
Location: Sedona, AZ USA

Part 9: Wiring PCB to Coil & Motor

Post by Ned »

Part 9: Wiring PCB to Coil & Motor

The front portion of CK3 is similar to CK1 and the rear portion is similar to CK4. With that in mind use the photos of CK1 & CK4 below as a guide to connect the wires.

1. If the wires from the coil are not yet soldered to the PCB, now is the time to do it. The wire emerging from near the back of the coil, should be soldered to the terminal on the PCB nearest the front of the coil (on the corner of the PCB). The wire coming from the front end of the coil, nearest the 2 magnets on the tie-rod, should be soldered to the terminal on the PCB that is next to the front most terminal. See photos below.

Image
CK4

Image
CK1

2. Connect the wires from the motor to the PCB as shown in the photo below of CK4. Note that the motor in the photo below is glued to the frame so that the identifying numbers on the motor are visible. When wired as shown, the negative (-) terminal on the motor is connected to the terminal on the PCB that is located on the corner of the PCB.

Image
Top view of completed CK4 Chassis

Image
Bottom view of completed CK4 chassis.

Please contact me by PM, if you find a mistake in the instructions or have a suggestion for improving them.
Locked