MAGracing Forum

I tried with 9 and with 10 cm between the lanes in corners, but was is best? I will find out soon.

The lane change must take place over a length of 60 cm. to be able to change lane in full speed.
further more there must be some distance from the point where 2 lanes meet to the point where the next change/drive line take place.

Pit lane:
I tried with 20 cm to each pit, that's enough for the cars to get in and out without hitting the other cars in the pit, but the radius are too small then, I will try some other radius tomorrow.

Corner radius:
I tried with 20 cm. radius, that's go fine for a normal corner, but in a S chicane the 20 cm. gives too many accidents, here it has to be larger radius. 30 cm. works well.

here is a idea for double lane change and double racing line in one piece:
When I race on the real track I always try to take the racing line no matter if I am in the wrong side of the track right now, so both lanes has to have the change to do it.

Keld, I like that very much. Good thinking!

Keld wrote:here is a idea for double lane change and double racing line in one piece:

racingline.jpg

When I race on the real track I always try to take the racing line no matter if I am in the wrong side of the track right now, so both lanes has to have the change to do it.

Keid

When you recommend 30cm as min radius ...I'm thinking you are talking about the radius of the inside lane not the average of inside and outside or the racing line? Is this correct?

Raudi1 wrote:Keid

When you recommend 30cm as min radius ...I'm thinking you are talking about the radius of the inside lane not the average of inside and outside or the racing line? Is this correct?

Raudi1, the inside lane, but it is OK with a smaller radius on a single curve, but if you have a chicane it's better with 30 cm, thats just what I found out on my testtrack.


btw I made a bridge yesterday and we tested raise on the bridge, the section is 1.2 m long from start in level to finish in level, we raised it 7.5 cm and there was absolute no problems, the car can stop on the way up a restart without problems.
Then we try with 9.5 cm and there is still no problem driving, but if you stop on the way up the car will run backwards and make wheel spin when try starting again.
the bridge 7.5 high, just got water, after drying this morning the bridge stay in the same position without help.
(wet wipes keeps the water on the tree)

Thanks Keid, very helpful and good to know maximum incline for standing start.

In raudi and it's testing so far, there doesn't seem to be much of a minimum distance between where two lanes join and another lane change starts. I believe Wes recommended about 20" on his website but we have a few with as little as 5-6" and there seems to be no problem. The biggest issue seems to be in a persons reaction time to be able to change lanes.

You always have to keep in mind how many decisions a person has to make per second. If the number gets too high, the track will feel very maintenancey (like you have to focus too much and can't relax at any point on the track.)

Too few decisions and the track can feel boring or dull.

You're right, the amount most fit the track, not too many and not too few, but remember that we still learning to drive and getting better, so it has to feel a little difficult right now to fit when we learned to drive.


I just got back from a slotrace in Germany, it was our first visit to the track, and the track was very slippery when we arrived and it seems hard to learn it, but after 1½ days of practice it was spot on, after the race we all agreed that the track was too easy there was too many parts and corners where you could give full speed.

But here is the Magracing fantastic, we can rearrange the track pretty easy, nothing like slottrack.

Hello
This is possible with the MAGRACING system

is that a question?
in that case, Yes it is possible.