MAGracing Forum

Eventually I decided to print some better barriers. The cheep and easy garden hose are e bit too low.

It is a 2 piece system. one PETG barriere and a connecting dogbone TPU (flexable).

Show us your solution.

It is now available at my shop at : Id4u.no

https://id4u.no/butikk#!/magracing-1-0x ... -wheelbase

Skills are improving but still (alot) room for improvments.
Spring 2023.

I'll se how this works out. Useing my 3D printed triangle bars. But I agree NED, some flex works best. Putting a center rod will be difficult with this design but if my present 'bars' does not work it will be an easy change to use wire bars. IMG_20230325_194332.jpg Cutting when you have set your len...

Hi. Not a pretty face but.... Is this a viable way of making a variable chassis ? Made the connection rods separate. So you can make new if you brake some or want to make some even longer or in other material. Is the triangle shape the best shape for rigidity ? At the moment in 1:32 version. Screens...

Some small adjustments to chassis to shoe-horn them into the bodies. WB 75MM.
I'll do some laps in the weekend to compare the variants.

The ReFb has the new Turboracing RX.
I managed to rip off the antenna so I solered in a 40 mm magwire in stead. Working fine.

I'm going to route this for a test.

600 mm long straight
100mm lane spacing. So I can run 1:24 and 1:32.
10mm distance for incomming/outgoing raceline.
'Dogbone' for connecting.

Green arrow for racing direction.
Red part no wire, empty magline.

The problem is not racing both directions. It is the X beeing to close to the 'catching' line from the racing line from a prevoious turn. There should be at least 2 carlength between the catcing Y and the new change X .
I have a revised version, comming up soon.

No need to add cost to this hobby. When it has grown the hottest hobby in town then we will see.