MAGracing Forum

Wonder if Dremel has any bits small enough to use the plunge router attachment. Could save a bit of money as I already have the router attachment, but would a small carbide tip hold up to the heat? Have to run over to the shop and look around and experiment!!

Found on Amazon in UK, good price too!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-26150670 ... 074&sr=8-1

Gonna get one!

....small .028 carbide tip router (end mills)..... work good, but, one wrong move snap off. went thru a 5 pack in no time. Dremel saw Keld method next....

Hi Keld how did you glue the wood to the saw, with 2 epoxy?
And how about replacing the saw, just snap off the wood and glue a new one.

Just thinking because I used it yesterday and the glue I used it wasn't enough dry.

So I glued a new on with other glue and started to paint some details on my McLaren.

Have fun, Frank.

I never use epoxy to anything, IMO it is bad glue, became hard and crack.

I use contact glue for almost everything I glue, contact glue is a yellow* glue you came on both parts you set together, let it dry before putting it together and it will stay together. When you need to separate the parts you can use 'Kerosene' a couple of drops, let it stay for 2 min. and the parts can be removed.

I also have a white contact glue, this is really good gluing windows to the modelcars, I only use that on one part and let it dry a little before sample the parts, If there are any glue on the window it can be removed with the finger, or if it is a lot use some kerosene on a Cotton swab

Keid..

Am interested in your Dremel method. What are you doing at switching points?

right now I did most switching without the plate, it seems to work fine if I remember to let the switching wire became unbroken, and the straight wire cut and just push as close to the other as possible, I only tried the plate once, then I just go slowly from side to side to make the hole to the plate, I think depending on the wood type that I can make 2 cuts and then use a chisel.

After some experimenting on scrap of wood, there is there is no question the "Keid" method is the easiest way to lay wire. Score, fill w/glue, press in wire, wipe, done!

If nothing else the Dremel attachment pays for itself in what I save in wallboard mud!

The switching is the part I want to clarify. If I understand Keid is suggesting the turning or "switched" wire is continuous and the straight thru is gapped close to the turn wire?

Would it be possible to diagram an example and what kind of gap are we talking, 1mm?, 2mm?

I see "vintage 1/24" made an awesome bullring oval w/ the Keid method... What switching method did you use? Hoping to save a ton of time in trial and error... I'm willing to learn.

Raudi 1, You can find out layout information regarding the plates here. http://www.magracing.co.uk/track.html

The plates aren't that big of a deal. As an experiment, I lined up several rows of staples in the recess, tapped them down flush with a hammer and they work as good as my other changers with a plate.

Thanks mike... Good to know.