Instructions for Chassis Kit CK4

Ned's instructions for building a chassis and attaching a body to it.

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Ned
Posts: 368
Joined: Sun 13. Apr 2014 01:02
Location: Sedona, AZ USA

Part 10: Mounting Body to Chassis

Post by Ned »

Part 10: Mounting Body to Chassis

Before attaching the body to your chassis, run the chassis around your track several times but be careful doing this. The pins/posts of the front end are vulunerable when not protected by a body. Make sure the chassis is performing well before mounting the body to the chassis. The body will substantially affect the handling and cornering of the completed car. If you encounter problems, you need to know if it is with the chassis or with the body.

With effective front and rear bumpers, usually 2 regular steel screws, attached to the motor pod in the rear, and one attached in the upper suspension beam in front, along with 3 magnets glued to the body, are enough to hold the body to the chassis. If need be, you could use 2 screws and magnets in front, 2 in in the middle and 2 behind the rear axle. Use the quantity and length of screws appropriate for your body.

Size # 2 flat head screws of various lengths work well. They have a diameter of .086”. They cannot be stainless steel. I recommend using larger magnets glued to the body rather than the 3mm dia x 2mm magnets used for the original magracing chassis. Magnets having 4mm - 5mm diameters, and 2mm - 3mm thick should work fine. The photo below shows 2 different lengths of flat head screws, 1/4" and 3/8". These lengths usually work very well for 1/32 LMP race cars, but in some cases, 1/4" is too long. The magents shown are 4mm x 3mm thick and 5mm x 3mm thick.

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The height of the body can be precisely adjusted relative to the frame and wheels, by turning the screws. For CK4, prior to gluing the motor to the frame, the wheelbase can also be precisely adjusted by loosening the screw in the motor pod, sliding the pod, and re-tightening the screw.

You may have to fabricate front and rear bumpers or make some provisions to prevent the body from sliding backward or forward relative to the chassis upon crashing. You will probably also have to devise something to prevent the body from shifting sideways, especially in front. Each case is unique.

The photos below show an example for a 2003 Audi R8. The body, wheels, tires, rear axle, and crown gear are for an SCX PRO slot car. I bought those parts on eBay.

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In this case none of the cockpit had to be removed but some of the ducting had to be cut out. The body is held securely to the chassis with three 5mm x 3mm thick magnets, glued to the body with 5-minute 2-part epoxy glue. No additional bumpers are needed. The axle support posts are located immediately infront of and up against the magnets which are glued to the body. This prevents the body from sliding forward relative to the chassis.

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A connector socket on the PCB was removed to make room for all of the interior. The connector is not needed, unless you want to reprogram the module on the PCB. The connector is the white rectangular object with 7 small electrical pins. It is located between the screw used to attach the PCB to the frame and the bank of 4 dip switches on the PCB. Some cars were shipped without this connector socket. Since I do need these connectors, I removed it when building this car.

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The case of a converted Fly 1998 Porsche 911 GT1 slot car is shown below. I bought the used slot car on eBay. I used the body, wheels, tires, rear axle, crown gear, and some wire from the slot car.

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I utilized the front and rear portion of the slot car frame as bumpers along with a black plastic cleat glued to the front of the frame, to prevent the body from shifting on the chassis.

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Four screws and four 4mm x 3mm thick magnets glued to the body with 5-minute 2-part epoxy glue, are used to hold the body to the chassis.

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Some of the interior was removed in the case of this car. But, very little of the exterior body shell was modified. A connector socket on the PCB was removed to make room for more of the interior. It is not needed, unless you want to reprogram the module on the PCB. The connector is the white rectangular object with 7 small electrical pins. It is located between the screw used to attach the PCB to the frame and the bank of 4 dip switches on the PCB. Some cars were shipped without this connector socket. Since I do need these connectors, I removed it when building this car.

Please contact me by PM, if you find a mistake in the instructions or have a suggestion for improving them.
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